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The Way West
Week #1
After a sunny journey on Sunday from
New York Penn- Station to Lancaster by AMTRAK ($40), an
awful rainy Monday was to be the start of my cross
country trail. Lancaster HD
prepared the bike, mounted a windshield and a
sissy-bar. The 1000 miles check-up had been fixed with HD
Boswell,Nashville one week later. By late afternoon I
took HW30 via York to Gettysburgh.
On a cold and sunny morning I rode down HW522
into Winchester,Va having a coffee at Kälin's bakery. At
Front Royal I joined the Skyline Drive of Shenandoah NP.
I had to leave in Swift Run Gap after about 60 miles. 60
miles of curves. No better place to become familiar with
a new motorcycle. In the afternoon I met some bikers on
their way from Florida to Philadelphia. They showed me
the Nickel trick on a Honda. I had a big laugh when I
told them I would ride down to San Francisco and this
would be my first bike since 30 years. One looked at me
and said 'You're biker #3'. I asked 'What is biker #3'.
He explained '#1 dreams all his life to do this trip. #2
goes to a Harley dealer, sits on a motorcycle, takes a
picture and tells everybody 'This was my dream'. And #3
makes it.'
Continuing on HW340 I got to Waynesboro
going for about 30 miles on Blue Ridge Parkway down to
Lexington finished my first planned leg. Here I had the
option to go west to Louisville,Ky meeting my friend
Howard, or riding further southwest into Tennessee.
Howard stayed in Hawaii ( what a great job), so I would
take US11 via Roanoke and Abingdon.
Over Virginia's rugged mountains and lush
valleys I came to the Tennessee border. A couple of
pictures were taken on my digital Sony Mavica. All I
needed was a PC with Internet connection to send these
pictures by e-mail to my family and friends. In
Abingdon,Va I went by an Internet provider. As I asked
for some computer time, he told me to go to the public
library. What a great institution. In 24 of the 25 states
I went through I could manage my e-mail for free. Just
California, the state every European thinks of as having
absolute freedom didn't allow.
Early morning thunderstorms stopped me.
Time to watch CMT. Why don't we have that
in Europe? By motel's check-out time the road
got dry. I rode down on US11 along Cherokee National
Forest, had a look at Davy Crockett's birthplace and came
to Oldtown Knoxville for the Biker's night. Proudly I
lined-up my dirt Dyna within all other bar-bikes and had
a great time.
Crossing the Tennesee River on US11 I made my way down to
Chattanooga. The Choo-Choo wasn't worth this way. So I
turned via the Georgia border on TN156/50 north to
Lynchburg. Next stop at Jack Daniels' distillery. Junior,
our guide told us all the secrets of making the world's
best whisky. He led us put our noses into each pot. You
don't get drunk in a dry county, but you're close to it.
I picked-up my T-Shirt at the General Hardware Store and
took US41 into Music City USA.
Three days of my favorite music in Nashville. The bike
got a wash. I rode downtown and had dinner in the
Hardrock Cafe
, one of
the best organizations around the world. The later the
evening the more the Broadway got crowded. Just a spot at
the bar and a beer in my hand in the Legend Corner or the
others. Bikers rode up and down the roads. And the best
country all night long. On Sunday morning I payed a
tribute to the country stars at the Country Music Hall of
Fame
, a look at Studio B and the Ryman Auditorium.
And in the evening another walk through the bars along
the Broadway.
Week #2
Boswell HD checked-up the motorcycle
after 1000 miles as agreed. A visit at the Grand Ole Opry
and a match of the Nashville Cats (Indoor Football). A
ten years old girl, Sammy Jo, sang at the Legend Corner.
Where does all this talents come from?
A 250 miles ride on US100 got me to Memphis,TN. An Elvis
statue at the Travel Center welcomed me. I never had many
difficulties to understand slang in the east or west, but
I couldn't understand this biker at Beale Street. So, the
small- talk got smaller and smaller. Having a motel at
Elvis-Presley Boulevard brought me in 5 minutes to
Graceland. If it wasn't for Elvis, I saw him live in
Germany during his time as a GI, I wouldn't go to this
commercialized monument. I just took the trip through
Graceland
, having a look at the Golden Records etc. but
had no interest for the Car and Airplane exhibitions.
Back to downtown I took a ride on one of those famous
Mississippi paddlewheel steamers. To manage my e-mail I
went to the public library. While waiting I read a
newspaper and found an ad for a Brooks&Dunn
performance at Tunica,Ms. E-mail must wait. I speeded
down on US51, got a ticket and sat just 20 meters from
the stage. Last year in Las Vegas my wife and I had been
about 200 meters from the stage. So I took my binoculars
with me rather than my camera. So, no pictures from a
great performance. A $2 sightseeing tour in one of these
streetcars, a visit at the police museum on Beale street
and a Hamburger in B.B.King's bar while listening to his
musicians practising finished my Memphis visit.
US70 runs to Little Rock,Ar. A flat windy ride through
rice fields led to Arkansas' capital city. A funny pool
billard party closed this day.
Via state Highway 10 to Fort Smith,Ar.
Crossing the Oklahoma border. On US64 and US266 I rode
into the west. The village museum in Sallisaw,Ok took my
attention. I rode down to Henryetta. People told me about
the Mayfest in Tulsa. I changed my mind and went north on
US62. Downtown Tulsa was overcrowded. Musicians on the
stages closed early, too early. I took the wrong way.
Breakfast in one of those typical Route 66
restaurants
.
Two days after a tornado destroyed everything on its way
from south to north, I got my kicks west to Oklahoma City
on US66. It was Sunday and the Lincoln Motel in Chandler
unfortunately closed. A stop at Arcadia's Round Barn. The
guy there told me this kind of architecture came from
Switzerland or Germany's Black Forest. I never saw that
here in Europe. Listening to the black humor of a radio
station called "The Twister" two days after a
Tornado damaged everything on his way north is a special
kind of sunday afternoon amusement.
Week #3
A strong thunderstorm kept me in my
motel room. The short way to Denny's made me soaked to my
skin. The sky cleared up in the afternoon and I rode to
the 'Red Earth' museum and 'The Cowboy Hall of Fame'. I
expected much more than it was.
US66 runs west in parallel to I40. A walk through El Reno
and a visit to Fort Reno, filling up gas at Lucille
Harmon's service station and all day looking for Historic
Route 66. It's mostly the Frontage road, but very often
it ends after 2 miles in a dead end. So, it's better to
take I40, fighting the strong winds and trucks. There are
Route 66 Museums in each town but, I guess the best
you'll find is in Clinton,Ok.
Good show
of the story of Route 66, cars, tools, music etc. And of
course a souvenir shop. By 6pm I came to Amarillo,Tx.
Stopped at 'Big Texan Steakhouse'.
It's hard to wait for about one hour for a dinner-table
when you're tired and sweaty. But this kind of steak
rewards everything. Thick, pink and tender. I think I
never had one of this kind, together with the singers,
musicians and dancers a pretty nice welcome to Texas.
3000 miles check-up at Tripp's HD Amarillo. Heading west
about 7 miles led me to the graveyard of our civilization.
The famous Cadillac Ranch.
10
Cadillacs rammed into the ground and decorated over and
over with Grafitti.
Left Amarillo for Canyon City, about 30 miles south. The
Frontier Museum is one of the best I ever visited in the
US. It gives you a detailed round-up of the living in
this area, including the lives of the indigenous indians.
Ten miles east of Canyon City is the entrance to the Palo
Duro Canyon.
It would be my first night in a tent since more
than 25 years. I got a spot, set-up my tent and woke-up
the attention of a couple of turkeys. Not many people on
the campgrounds and sunset at 8 pm. A long and lonesome
night.
The turkeys woke me up in the early morning at 6 a.m. A
cold ten miles ride into Canyon City for a great
breakfast and hot coffee. I went into the public library
to manage my e-mail. My bike was parked on a police spot.
As I returned the police officer asked for my driver
license. I presented my 'Lernfahrausweis'. He 'read' it,
gave it back to me and appreciated the talk we had. A
relaxed two hours ride on US60 southwest to Clovis,NM.
The afternoon ride brought me to Roswell,NM.
I went to the UFO museum. I know the story of the landing
of aliens. I read a book about it, saw reports on TV just
a couple of years ago and now I had an intense look at
the museum. No, it didn't convince me. Why must an alien
look like a human? I finished the day with a ride to
Ruidoso, expecting to bet some money at the horse race.
But, I was one week to early. So, I took a room in the
Innsbruck Lodge. I gained for my very fist time, about $50
in the Mescalero Apache Reservation Casino. The night
ended in two nice bars with Country and Blues on
Ruidoso's main street.
It's
cold at 6900ft. The road climbs up to Cloudcroft. The
rain is close to snow. After a hot coffee I continued to
the Sun Spot Observatory. The sky cleared for about 30
minutes. Nice exhibition at the information center but no
view of the sun. Back to Cloudcroft and down to
Alamogordo. Continuing to White Sands NP. Very
interesting exhibition in the information center. The
round-trip takes you to several trails. The road surface
looks like a wash-board. Rocks the motorcycle incredibly.
Time to hike. I took the Big Dune Trail. Don't forget
some water, it's hot and humid. Through White Sands
Missile Range to Las Cruces. Not thrilling.
Week #4
Bowie,Az is supposed to be the goal
today. All day long on I10, no alternative available. No
difficulties with the traffic. The road is wide, the
surface fine. 
Just the
gusty wind in connection with the trucks takes all my
attention. Stop at Lordsburg,NM. Coffee and an apple pie.
I changed my goal and rode to Wilcox,Az 30 miles further.
Another stop at the Arizona State line. Temperature and
Wind required more breaks than planned. For about 100
miles a truck followed me. When I speeded up he did, if I
slowed down he did. I was a bit scared, recalling all
those terrible stories I had heard. Friends told me,
don't go on Interstates, lock your bike every night,
sleep close to it etc. One of these guys offered me a gun!!
So I expected the worst. As I came to Wilcox I rode down
I10 and stopped at the Travel center. So did he and
explained he was a biker too and was afraid that I would
fall over with these gusty winds!!!!! Before I could say
‚Thanks', he was gone. Buddy, if you read this, send
me a mail.
Early morning on State Hw 186 to the Chiricahua N.M.
Another place to hike or camp for some days. But I had no
time. Just the round-trip, a visit in National Park
Office and some stops to take pictures. Because I wanted
to be in Tombstone by 2p.m. when the Earps kill the
Clantons.
I came just in time to the OK Corral for the showdown. Tombstone is a funny,
original Old Western town, with the historical background
still alive. The Birdcage, Big Nose Kate's Saloon,
Tombstone Epitaph, the OK Corral, Boot Hill etc. worth to
visit. I don't advertise anything, but I must recommend
the Trail Rider's Inn.
West on State HW82 and a turn to north on State HW83. A
visit to Saguaro NP. Tucson was boring. Even a visit to
Old Tucson, the movie town couldn't make this stay more
exciting. £13 entrance fee was too much, not to be
recommended.
Early morning, the temperatures are convenient and the
sky is blue. North to Apache Junction. Nice break at Lost
Dutchman State Park at the Superstition Mountains.
The ride through Phoenix apparently never ended.
First Mesa, then Tempe, a break at Phoenix' Hardrock
Cafe, Glendale and Sun City. About 2 hours at 110° F.
Each traffic light on red. Don't they know how to make
them green? The sun burned from above and the Twin Cam 88
heated under my seat. Finally I reached the goal of this
leg, Wickenburg. I came to the Visitor's Center 10
minutes after closing time. But a friendly lady served me
with all the information I needed for my one night stay.
People in the motel told me that US93 would be a
dangerous road for a biker. It's a scenic ride through
Saguaro forests and rough canyons. At the end I picked up
I40 to Kingman. Kingman, a typical Route 66 town. Looks
like everybody makes money with America's Motherroad. I
had a look at the Dambar. A Steakhouse I had been with my
family some years ago. It was remodelled. No more tables
and benches, no more sawdust on the floor. Money kills
characteristics. A stop at all-time spectacular Hoover
Dam.
Via Henderson to Las Vegas. I didn't try to get a room on
Las Vegas Strip, because it was Memorial Day weekend. But
all motels on Boulder Highway were fully booked by 5 p.m.
It wasn't my first Memorial Day weekend here, but it was
the first time I was scared not to get a room. Finally I
found one downtown, one block off Fremont street. On
Fremont Street Experience Bill Haley's Comets performed
in the evening. Great Rock 'n Roll by about 70 year old
guys!! Sunday morning I rode out to the Texas Station for
tickets for the Doobie Brothers performance in the
evening. 30 bucks for an fabulous concert. Riding down
the Las Vegas Strip was hard. Walking down as well. So I
parked my motorcycle at the Harley-Davidson
Cafe.
Where else? One year ago I promised myself when
I visited it with my wife, that I would return with my
own motorcycle. And here I was. Gambling and sightseeing,
people watching and relaxing at the pool. About 4000
people attended the Doobie Brothers performance. No seats
needed. Everybody was rocking. If you want to be
entertained go to Las Vegas. I guess you will find the
best shows there. So I got a ticket for the one and only
Temptations.
Week #5
A cold morning in scenic Red Rock
Canyon and a hot run through Death Valley, that's on the
program for today. Leaving Las Vegas on State Route 159
through scenic Red Canyon. Took a right turn at Junction
160 to Pahrump. Breakfast and pumping up gas. Crossing
the California border and a stop at Zabriskie Point.
I left Las Vegas dressed in my leather jacket
and the chaps, it was that cold. Here I thought about
shortening my pants to Bermudas. Zabriskie Point, a great
spot to rest for some time, watch the colors and the
tourists walking by. Next stop at Furnace Creek Ranch.
Visiting the NP Information Center and listen to the
interesting slide show. On California 190 and 178, one of
the loneliest roads I've ever been on, along China Lake
trials area to Ridgecrest. Winds that gusty, that I felt
how it moved my tight fitting helmet!
A cool, but nice ride through a Joshua Tree
forest to Lake Isabella. Through the Kern River Valley
down to Bakersfield. Here, California looks like
everybody pictures it. As I rode out of Bakersfield I
checked my gas and the map and thought I had enough gas
for the ride on California 58 to San Luis Obispo. Another
lonesome road crossed the San Joaquin Valley and the
Coast Range. Gas got less and less. I switched to reserve.
The road dropped down into another valley, climbed up a
hill, another valley another hill and no gas station. I
was terrified because of the too little gas and the cold
temperatures. On the last drop I reached Santa
Margarita's gas station. Out of order!! Next one at San
Luis Obispo. Nobody could or wanted to help. So I crossed
my fingers, rode up the hill on US101 changed into
neutral and got down to San Luis with a dry tank. Picking
up California State Highway #1, the marvelous, and ridin'
into the sunset down to Morro Beach.
A terrific day. Bright sunshine. 100 miles north to
Monterrey. Taking breaks at Cambria, San Simeon State
Park, Cape San Martin
, Lopez Point, Fernwood/Big Sur and everywhere.
Watching the surfers, the seals and this marvelous
landscape. If you never believed in God, you will start
here.
Rainy and cold Friday morning. Fisherman’s Wharf,
impressive Monterrey Bay Aquarium and the Cannery Row
are on schedule today. Terry, the H.O.G. President of
Monterrey and Employee of the Aquarium put my bike with
my luggage on it on the personal parking lot.
The bike needs a 5000 miles check-up. Peninsula HD
Redwood City is on my way to San Francisco. The sky is
grey, so there’s no reason to ride all the way on #1.
After cruising around Monterey Bay I took State Hw 17
through Cupertino and Sunnyvale. While waiting on my
motorcycle I had a long and nice talk to Lorraine. Late
afternoon I rode into San Francisco. It seemed SF was
fully booked. I just found a room in Oakland.
After breakfast I crossed the bay and rode to Lombard
Street.
A couple from Hamburg took pictures while I
rode down this winding road. On my way to the stadium I
picked up my Hardrock Cafe pin. I had never been in the
Candle Stick Park. I always wanted to go there when the
49ers had a game. I had to leave twice when they played
next day. Today the Giants played the A's.
I did not have many critical moments on my trip. Two boys
in Nashville jumped on the street from behind a truck, a
car rode over a crossroad while his light was on red in
Little Rock. But here I had all the luck you need. While
standing on the left lane at a crossroad to turn left a
pick-up truck passed me and drove straight ahead exactly
in the moment I would go off. Both right lanes were empty.
I saw him in my mirror at absolutely the latest moment.
Back in the city I met a lot bikers at Lou’s Cafe at
Fisherman’s Wharf. They were excited about my trip
and happythat I survived this incident.
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