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Von:Michael Szönyi (m.szoenyi@gmx.ch)
Betrifft:expensive brake maintenance
Newsgroups:alt.autos.subaru
Datum:2001-07-20 13:36:15 PST
Hi all
I own a '93 Legacy 2.0 turbo super station and have a big maintenance work done right now. The mechanic found out that he has to change all the brake discs and saddles which is going to cost me around $1000 with all the parts and work included. The strange thing is that I had the front discs changed about 15'000 miles ago and they are gone again. Is this normal?? I can't imagine that brakes last only for +/- 15'000 miles and have to be changed then and my driving is not that forced.
TIA Mike
Von:John Kaufmann
Betrifft:Re: expensive brake maintenance Newsgroups:alt.autos.subaru View this article only
Datum:2001-07-23 00:18:53 PST
Michael, unfortunately I'm not sure it is unusual ... but the key may be in your mechanic's recommendation to replace the saddles (what Americans know as brake supports, the supports on which the pads ride). How has your fuel consumption been? Have the pads have been dragging on the discs? Some background: After sharing your experience of having the pads and discs replaced at short intervals, I finally decided to do the job myself, using pads and discs that were NOT from Subaru. But then, when I removed the old pads and discs, I found corrosion unlike any I have ever seen before on a car - and needed a hammer and chisel to remove both pads and discs! Now obviously that's not normal, but Subaru mechanics in the US often use a hammer on the pads. Howver, I was not willing to use a hammer on the new pads, so I investigated the problem further. What I found: the support surfaces were so heavily corroded that the rust was pushing the pad clips out against the guide surfaces of the pads. The binding was so severe as to impeded braking - but at the same time, so severe that the pads did not release from the discs as they should. I could have ordered all new supports (saddles) from Subaru, but that would have been expensive and required a wait of several days to finish the job. So I removed the pads clips, filed down all of the support surfaces (12 surfaces on each support) to clean metal, cleaned up the clips and replaced them. [If I could have gotten new clips quickly, I would have bought replacements rather than cleaning them, because they are not expensive enough to justify the time to clean them.] Then the brakes reassembled easily, just like a "normal" car. :) So, although I do expect that the premium pads and discs that I installed will last better than equivalent Subaru parts, I think the most important thing I did for the life of the brake components was to clean up the rust. That also improved braking (better than the previous job done at a Subaru dealership) -- and also improved the fuel consumption, an unexpected benefit. So I wonder if your brakes have been draagging? -- John
Von:Michael Szönyi (m.szoenyi@gmx.ch)
Betrifft:Re: expensive brake maintenance
Datum:2001-07-23 13:32:31 PST
Hi John
> How has your fuel consumption been? Have the pads have been dragging > on the discs?
Sounds pretty interesting what you say. I haven't noticed any dragging but I'll check that. Fuel consumption was rather good anyway (always around 10 l / 100kms or even below that) and the brakes are not that good in any case. The "brake feeling" is rather bad and the measurement is not that easy. I think the brake power is poor for a +200hp car wheighing 1.5 tons.
> both pads and discs! Now obviously that's not normal, but Subaru
> mechanics in the US often use a hammer on the pads. Howver, I was not
> willing to use a hammer on the new pads, so I investigated the problem
> further. As I never had anything to be changed except normal parts like oil filter etc. and brake pads, I never >have the work done by a Subaru mechanic but by a brandless garage which is normally pretty fair. > So, >although >I do expect that the premium pads and discs that I > installed will last better than equivalent >Subaru parts, I >think the > most important thing I did for the life of the brake components was to > clean up >the rust. That also >improved braking
Was braking poor before that with you? And what was your fuel consumption like? I didn't notice anything unusual but the brakes happened to be fairly hot after (sportive) driving in hilly / mountainous regions. Another funny thing the mechanic told me I'm not sure whether I should believe it or not: He said the rear discs have never been changed before - on a car with 180k kms on the clock, whereas the front pads didn't even last 30'000 kms. I agree that the rear brake discs where almost "dead" and braking only in the middle possible - the rest was all rust. But 180'000 kms on the back compared to 1/6 of it on the front? Brakes are applied more on the front of a car, but not in a 1:6 ratio... I'm trying to find out - and Ill see whether the new parts (not Subaru original) will last better
thx anyway
MikeVon:Lost-in-space (gecoffin@home.com)
Betrifft:Re: expensive brake maintenance Newsgroups:alt.autos.subaru View this article only
Datum:2001-07-20 22:53:55 PST
They probably used cheapo pads I have 64k on my pads nowMatthew Stow (millipede02@hotmail.com)
Betrifft:Re: expensive brake maintenance Newsgroups:alt.autos.subaru View this article only
Datum:2001-07-22 18:24:01 PST
Got near 100k on mine. Provided the dealer replaced them when I brought the car with 60k on it. They are starting to squeak a little. My car is a manual, if you have an automatic you will go through brakes a lot faster. Noticed a lot of people riding their brakes going down mountains this weekend. Quite entertaining to me. -- Matt with his 2˘ 2000 Legacy GT 1990 Legacy L
Von:Michael Szönyi
Betrifft:slipping clutch
Newsgroups:alt.autos.subaru
Datum:2001-11-16 17:12:53 PST
Hi everyone
It seems that my clutch is dying - I hope not but I have to assume that it is... What is generally the definition of a slipping clutch? I know it like this: Rev is climbing but speed is not. What is the problem, when the other thing is happening (i.e. speed is climbing but revs are not)? Transmission??? I have encountered different situations when either of the above is occurring. Worst is a car that just warmed up. When the turbo is kicking in in third, revs are quickly climbing whereas speed is not. A little bit later, just the opposite may happen, that around 4000 rpm the revs just hang on for half a second or so but speed is climbing steadily. Can this be a discontinuity of the turbo pressure? I am not definitely sure but most probable is the clutch, isn't it? And I think its typical that a cold clutch is having more likely this symptom rather than a warm clutch, as well as problems getting worse in higher gears?! Any suggestions and experiences? If it is the clutch, should I replace it ASAP or just drive the car until it really dies? Any techniques or help for a longer life or an improvement are very appreciated
thanks
MikeVon:Bill Putney
Betrifft:Re: slipping clutch
Newsgroups:alt.autos.subaru
Datum:2001-11-16 18:21:17 PST
It's best if you give a little info. as far as year and model of your car - as Jerry McGuire said: "Help...US...Help...You! Help...Us...Help...You!" - but you don't have to "show us the money". 8^) The engine speed climbing but the vehicle speed not is easy - yes - that's a slipping clutch. The other scenario - vehicle speed increasing but the engine speed not - I had to think about for a second - thought you were pulling our collective leg at first. I believe what is happening there is that your clutch friction is improving after it slips a little. In other words, under heavy acceleration, you get slipping of the clutch with the engine in mid rpm range and max torque. Then the clutch decides it's going to grip better, and as the coupling between the engine and the transmission gets tighter, the engine sees more load at the same time more power gets transfered to the tranny - so engine speed stays the same or may even decrease, and the vehicle speed increases. This can happen if, say, your transmission is leaking a little oil out the front seal, as follows: A drop of oil hits your clutch, you punch it, the clutch slips initially, but as it slips, the oil film is soon rubbed/burned off, and the clutch starts grabbing again. My '86 GL10 turbo wagon that has a slight transmission front seal leak does this. The problem comes and goes depending on how I drive - high engine/tranny input shaft revs (even with no load - i.e. coasting at moderate speeds in a lower gear) result in more leaking and more slipping when I subsequently punch the throttle. If I keep engine revs low for a while, then punch it, no slipping at all. The dilemma is that I need to wait until the clutch wears out to justify pulling the engine or tranny to fix both problems (i.e., worn out clutch and leaking tranny seal).
(p.s. - it may be a rear engine oil seal leaking, but that would be less likely to contaminate the clutch - but it's possible.)
Bill PutneyVon:Michael Szönyi
Betrifft:Re: slipping clutch
Datum:2001-11-17 03:19:05 PST
> It's best if you give a little info. as far as year and model of your
sorry about that, I thought you know it already as I'm pretty frequent here ATM. Well, it is a (Swiss Model) Legacy 1992 Turbo wagon (147kw / 200 hp) with 190'000 kms on the clock. Besides the known problems (brake pads etc.) no real worries about it. Engine seems to befine.
Are you just guessing? There are indeed a few drips on the road below the car after I leave it for - say a day or two standing. Nothing to see just in a short time. Where exactly is the tranny located? Just behind the engine? About 80cm behind the front of the car? I never found anything leaking but there are these oily spots once in a while.
So what you actually are saying is, that the clutch is okay and the slipping comes from the oily parts dripping on the clutch coming possibly from a seal leak. How would you fix this, or would you just leave it as it is and get used to it, as there is no danger to make things worse?
>Bill Putney
This group is great!
Thanks! MichiVon:Bill Putney
Betrifft:Re: slipping clutch
Datum:2001-11-17 06:01:44 PST
Any time someone offers an opinion here based on a verbal description of symptoms, it is a guess without being able to see/touch/feel, and even on one's own car, the diagnosis can be questionable until you take things apart to really see what's going on. Also, what someone is thinking when they put it into words to post isn't always the same picture that forms in the reader's mind when he reads it.
Sometimes the best we can do is relate similar symptoms to what we've experienced knowing that many different problems can cause very similar observed symptoms - it may give the person with the problem ideas to look at certain more likely causes that they otherwise would not have thought of. With my car, I can't think of any other scenario than what I described - i.e., some fluid from somewhwere is getting on the clutch causing it to slip until it is worn or burned off by the slipping - there are several clues of this that I have observed over a couple of years that this has been going on - if it was simply due to clutch wear-out, it would have failed totally by now. I'm all ears if someone can offer another suggestion. And I admit with no hesitation that I won't absolutely know for sure until I remove the transmission or engine and can see. The area between the engine and tranny on mine stay wet, which goes along with my theory. The fact that you see some evidence of leaking but not generally when the car vehicle sits would go right along with this. Assuming it is a leaking seal (either rear engine crank seal or transmission input shaft seal) resulting in your observations, fluid would not come out of the seal except when the car was running, and then, whatever drips from it would be pulled downward by gravity, and usually blow off in the air-flow through the underside of the car. Some of the fluid likely would get flung around at high engine rpms. Then when you park it, no more leaking, just trace amounts of fluid/wet spots at the lowest points underneath the engine, transmission, and chassis. I suspect if you crawled underneath it, you would see definite black/wet areas at the rear of the engine. Yes, the tranny is just behind the engine - with a gap you can almost fit your hand into between them (about midway between the firewall and the radiator. If the gap was wider, you would see the flywheel and clutch, and on either end of the gap, the back of the engine where the rear seal is (in front of the flywheel) and, on the other side of the gap, the front of the tranny where its input shaft and seal are. Assuming it is a leak (I've learned to always hedge my bets), 8^) you could try a leak seal additive (either in the engine or the tranny depending on which you thought it was based on the fluid that is leaking.
Some people would advise against the additive, as it does chemically affect every seal in whichever component you put it in - but that is an option that may or may not work - I would avoid it beacuse it could cause other problems. The correction of the root cause can only be accomplished by pulling either the engine or transmission (there are differing opinions on which is easier - one advantage of pulling the engine is that it would be the thing to do if you want to give it a general going over with new water pump, new oil pump, front crank seal, camshaft seals, timing belts, etc.) and really find out what's going on with the clutch. Since the labor just to get a peek into the clutch area is significant, unless you *know* a component has low mileage on it and truly is in good condition, replace the complete clutch (disk and plate), throwout bearing, and pilot bearing, and of course, both the rear engine and transmission front seals whether they are leaking or not.
It's totally your option of whether to bite the bullet and fix it now, or to simply bide your time until the clutch goes out to put it off as long as practical. I don't look forward to that job, but some days, I really wish my clutch would go ahead and wear out so I have no choice. With mine it *can* be a little unsafe if I pull out to pass in a back-road situation and right at peak power the clutch starts slipping. I just have to be aware of that and know to slip back where I was as soon as that starts happening unless there is a long clear path ahead in the passing lane that will allow me to safely comlete the passing without full boost. Sorry - no easy solutions unless you want to risk some leak seal additive.
Bill PutneyVon:Michael Szönyi
Betrifft:Re: slipping clutch
Datum:2001-11-17 03:19:05 PST
Bill, thank your for the long and good information you gave. What you say is logical and I can follow the steps you thought through, but I'm not sure anymore whether this is really the problem. I just put a few paper sheets underneath the car to see where the oil is coming from. With the engine off, nothing was to be seen. Then I drove the car, came back and saw the oil dripping at once, coming from a blue metal box. Again, the dripping stopped immediately after shutting off the engine.
The blue thing is an AMC FO-027 oil filter which also seemed to be a bit loose (is that possible)? But I can't determine whether the oil is coming from the top of the filter itself (where the filter is attached to the engine) or from above, as there seems to be a little amount of oil outside the engine as well. Thanks again for your interesting input, but it seems that I have no chance to avoid the mechanic.
Cheers MikeVon:JerryO
Betrifft:Re: slipping clutch Newsgroups:alt.autos.subaru View this article only
Datum:2001-11-17 21:05:59 PST
I have had many cars with clutches which slip. Most act somewhat like yours. In fact that is close to how they are intended to work as they should slip (momentarily) when you race (run fast) the engine and engage the clutch very rapidly (ie drop the clutch). Several past clutches of mine couldn't pull down the engine rpm from the torque peak but the car would accelerate until the rpm matched the cars speed. Since I live in an area with little traffic, I can shift, wait for the clutch to take hold then apply the gas. Some of my past cars wouldn't pull the engine rpm down, some would after a few seconds. Some of these were caused by oil, but oil can also cause the clutch surface to become sticky which in turn causes chatter (shaking the car) as you engage it.
Slippage on most of my older cars were caused as the fiber surface of the clutch become polished (glazed) so it had poor friction characteristics. If you can live with minimum thottle when you shift (and you wouldn't have a turbo then would you?), you can wait forever (maybe?) to replace the parts. This due to static friction (I think that is what it was called back in my 7th grade science class) being higher than slideing friction which is what you have until the slipping has stopped. I would suggest changeing the clutch plate (and probably the other parts as suggested by Bill) when you have much extra slipping in normal driveing. I get by with modest acceleration in the lowest gear possible and letting the clutch take hold after shifting before trying to accelerate. Once on vacation, 1,500 miles from home, my clutch started to slip so bad that I had to drive in 4th not 5th, and 3rd to climb hills. In a hundred miles it was better and by the time I got home it was normal. That's the only self healing clutch I have ever heard of though. I think it was transmission oil leaked (as described by Bill), perhaps from heat and being quite full. I suggest you avoid any driveing style which causes the clutch to slip, including full throttle acceleration. Replace the parts if this isn't satisfactory.
JerryOVon:Ed Rachner
Betrifft:Re: slipping clutch Newsgroups:alt.autos.subaru
Datum:2001-11-18 22:05:00 PST
If you have a car with 190000 km on it and never replaced a clutch, you are certainly "due" for one. Sounds like a slipping clutch to me. By the way, Bill Putney is one of the more "expert" voices you'll find on this newsgroup. Another Subaru board is at http://server2.ezboard.com/bultimatesubarumessageboards ; you might inquire there. Good luck with the car. ---Ed Rachner
Von:Michael Szönyi (m.szoenyi@gmx.ch)
Betrifft:slipping clutch - the end of the story
Newsgroups:alt.autos.subaru
Datum:2001-11-19 09:45:40 PST
Hi there (especially Bill and Ed who responded to my first post) I spent the whole afternoon with my mechanic at the service station trying to find out what all the problems could be I summarize: Legacy '92 Turbo, slipping clutch @ around 4000 rpm in 3rd and 4rd, oil leaking when car is running As I had found out before, the oil filter seemed to be a little loose. So we took the thing off, checked it for cracks on the seal etc. and tightened it up. Mechanic thought that this was all the problem and we went for a test drive. Same problem. But we had cleaned the parts underneath the engine from the oil that had spilled and had a good possbility to find out now. Lifted the car again and found out that the oil was coming directly from the filter itself, as there was no spilling above the filter parts. We took it off again and found nothing faulty but changed the filter anyway (which took pretty long as there was no replacement available @ the station). When we attached the new filter (now a BOSCH), we noticed that the screw thread was somehow loose, too and thightened it as well. Went for another test drive after cleaning up the mess and filling up the lost oil from the two filter changes... seems to be fine now. So all the mess was caused by a faulty filter where obviously the seal inside wasn't thight. Remains the slipping clutch... it seems really to be a slipping clutch. Ok Ed you're right, 190'000 kms with the first clutch in a 200hp turbocharged car isn't that bad... but still you are not willing to spend the money for a replacement if not necessary. So thank you all for your interesting inputs, I would have loved if this could have been solved in just one step but I'm also glad that the engine wasn't losing oil somewhere and it was just a badly produced AMC oil filter (and I hope I haven't to pay for the replacement & work). The clutch should survive the winter and then we'll see. If it gets worse then I'll have to think about redoing it. thx again MikeVon:S.Lewis
Betrifft:Re: slipping clutch - the end of the story Newsgroups:alt.autos.subaru
Good followup. Don't feel disappointed. Lost a the clutch in my '80 Supra in much the same way at about 130k miles. It got so bad that hard acceleration even at interstate speeds in 4th and 5th would cause the RPM's to temporarily go sky high with parallel increase in speed. It happens, even to Scoobies. The new clutch fixed my problem.
Stew '90 LegWag LSVon:Rockhead
Betrifft:Re: slipping clutch - the end of the story
Datum:2001-11-19 11:10:07 PST
If you have a slipping clutch, you ought to replace it ASAP before the excess heat from slippage warps your flywheel as well. Just my $0.02.Von:ollo
Betrifft:Re: slipping clutch - the end of the story Newsgroups:alt.autos.subaru View this article only
Datum:2001-11-21 08:09:06 PST
I totally agree with that. Replace the clutch ASAP (means NOW!!) or you'll have to replace the flywheel as well. If it does not warp, it will fracture. BR, -olev- been there, done that with Legacy Turbo.
4.) Brake binding and tappet noise
Von:David Hills
Betrifft:92 Legacy Turbo - Brake binding and tappet noise - parts advice please
Newsgroups:alt.autos.subaru
Datum:2001-10-24 16:56:29 PST
Hello all
My 92 Legacy Turbo (145k miles) is experiencing a couple of the well-known problems that affect cars of this vintage. Firstly, I have had the front brakes bind on a few times, caused it would seem by a sticky piston. While the problem isn't occurring at the moment, the discs will need replacing anyway before too much longer and so I'm wondering if there are any alternatives to the standard Subaru brakes for this car. Does anyone know if there is a straightforward upgrade path to improved braking on the 92 Legacy? I'm thinking in terms of a kit comprising new calipers, disks and pads. I'm a bit of a novice in this field, so any advice on what would be required and any recommendations/pitfalls would be greatly appreciated. Any solution would have to fit behind the standard 15" wheels. The second problem is tappet noise. This seems to occur mostly when cold or around town - after a long motorway run the engine is wonderfully quiet, and if allowed to idle for several seconds, it usually calms down too. When the problem occurs, the engine seems reluctant to drop revs when changing gear. I was sent some Valve Lifter additive by Subaru UK, which didn't really alleviate the problem. I run the car on Mobil 1. From reading previous posts on this subject, there seem to be two schools of thought on remedies for the tappet problem, short of replacement with WRX heads.
One group of people recommend replacement of the hydraulic lash adjusters, all 16 of the blighters at Ł20 a pop. The other group point the finger of blame at insufficent oil pressure, and say that the problem is caused by the oil pump. I have also heard people recommend oil filters with non-return valves. It strikes me that replacing the oil pump is likely to be a lot cheaper than replacing the lash adjusters, so this may be the thing I try first. Does anyone know if there is such a thing as an uprated pump that would fit my car?
If anyone knows of any suppliers of the above parts - uprated brakes, oil pumps, oil filters - preferably in the UK, or can give any advice on my problems, I would be very grateful.
David Hills '92 Legacy Turbo
Von:Bill Putney
Betrifft:Re: 92 Legacy Turbo - Brake binding and tappet noise - parts advice please
Datum:2001-10-25 03:28:57 PST
Hi David.
Yeah, most expereinced Subaru owners would tell you that the oil pump is the problem with the tappets, or that it likely would be fixed by replacing the oil pump gaskets. For all the labor that it takes to replace just the gaskets, unless you're short on cash, you might consider just replacing the pump and gaskets at the same time as insurance. There can be other causes, but I think most if not all the experts agree that a bad tappet would be very rare - so, besides being expensive, replacing them would likely not fix the problem. It is also claimed that some dirt in the pressure relief valves in the cylinder heads (accessible by removing the cam covers - I hope this is accurate for your model - I'm used to the 80's vintage - things may have changed in this regard) can cause low pressure in the valve train area and cause the clatter.
My suggestion would be to replace the oil pump and gaskets first with a 90% probability that that will fix it. Next try cleaning out the pressure relief valves. And, yes, a good filter with the silicone anti-drainback valve will ensure that oil gets circulating a lot faster at startup rather than taking a few seconds to re-fill the filter first. I don't know if it's available on your side of the pond, but Purolator Pure One™ is universally highly respected, and is very reasonably priced. (Also, if the filter points straight up, then this anti-drainback valve would not be important, as the oil would stay in the filter overnight regardless.) As far as oil pump upgrade, after being on three Soobie forums for about two years now, I have never heard mention of a high volume pump available for Subarus. A couple of us have toyed with the idea of adapting an XT-6 higher volume pump to the 4-cylinder EA82 engine - would require modifying the drive belt sproket - but I don't think anyone's gone to the trouble - and, again, I don't know if your engine is totally different in regards to what the oil pump looks like or not. I'm not sure about brake upgrades - if no aftermarket upgrades, perhaps there are parts from other vehicles that will interchange, but someone else will have to supply that info.
You might want to post on the Ultimate Subaru ezboard forum - higher concentration of real gearheads over there.
Bill Putney
Von:David Hills
Betrifft:Re: 92 Legacy Turbo - Brake binding and tappet noise - parts advice please
Datum:2001-10-25 15:34:03 PST
Bill Wow!
Thanks for all that info on the oil pumps. I'm glad to see I'm not barking up the wrong tree completely. Oil pump and gaskets it is first, then. Where do I find the Ultimate Subaru ezboard?
With thanks
David Hills '92 Legacy TurboVon:David Hills
Betrifft:Re: 92 Legacy Turbo - Brake binding and tappet noise - parts advice please
Datum:2001-10-26 18:50:56http://pub1.ezboard.com/bultimatesubarumessageboards |
David Hills 92 Legacy Turbo
Von:Michael Szönyi
B etrifft:Re: 92 Legacy Turbo - Brake binding and tappet noise - parts advice please
Datum:2001-10-27 04:05:58 PST
Dave, Bill Thanx for all the interesting and informative input - as you perhaps know I'm affected of the same problems in the same car ('92 legacy turbo) and wil start to try out the possibilites given... and will of course keep you updated. Brakes seem rather fine at the moment but that could change rapidly... Valve noise is the same with me and I'l figure the things out you mentioned.
BTW: Does someone of you have unconstant turbo charge? IT just seems that the weather and the temperature are a big reason for the turbo to charge differently... warm & moist gives me less performance than cool, dry nights... After a certain time pushing the car, though, the problems seems to improve. Driving the car and accelarating more and more over a time of, say, 15-20 minutes seems to fix the problem and it charges as well as before. (That does not mean that I kick the car from start-up... of course there is a lot of warm-up time!!!)
cheers
MikeVon:Bill Putney
Betrifft:Re: 92 Legacy Turbo - Brake binding and tappet noise - parts advice please
Datum:2001-10-27 04:23:40 PST
Yes - warm air is less dense and so the cylinder charge isn't packed as well. My '86 turbo wagon behaves much differenlty on a crisp winter day than in the middle of summer. That's why they invented intercoolers - you can install one yourself, but I've not done that.
Bill PutneyVon:Michael
Betrifft:Re: 92 Legacy Turbo - Brake binding and tappet noise - parts advice please
Datum:2001-10-27 08:57:04 PST
Hi Bill,
> Yes - warm air is less dense and so the cylinder charge isn't packed as
> well. i.e. cold air can be compressed more easily...
>My '86 turbo wagon behaves much differenlty on a crisp winter day
> than in the middle of summer. That's why they invented intercoolers -
> you can install one yourself, but I've not done that.
So there are two questions arising:
1) Why the warm-up time and the better behaviour after being "kicked"? The weather is still the same outside...
2) I am pretty sure that an European '92 turbo (200 hp /147kw) is an intercooled turbo. Yes it is. Could it be, that that's just all the difference between the 160hp US-model and the 200hp-European model?
MikeVon:David Hills
Betrifft:Re: 92 Legacy Turbo - Brake binding and tappet noise - parts advice please
Datum:2001-10-27 13:16:24 PST
Interesting. Michael, is yours intercooled like mine? I have noticed than mine seems to have "mood swings" - on some days it seems more eager than others, but this could be entirely my imagination. It spends most of its time on the motorway at 3000ish revs, and it definitely seems to benefit from the occasional high speed run. What I have noticed is that fuel economy is much worse in the winter. Whether this is solely due to electrical load (rear demister, heater fan, lights) or whether it runs less efficiently at colder temperatures, I can't say.
| 2) I am pretty sure that an European '92 turbo (200 hp /147kw) is an
| intercooled turbo. Yes it is. Could it be, that that's just all the
| difference between the 160hp US-model and the 200hp-European model?
I only realised yesterday that there was a difference between the US and European Legacy Turbo. The US car is a 2.2 twin-cam isn't it? The Euro car has 2 litres and 4 cams.
David Hills '92 Legacy Turbo (2.0 4-Cam, intercooler, some clatter)Von:Michael Szönyi (m.szoenyi@gmx.ch)
Betrifft:Re: 92 Legacy Turbo - Brake binding and tappet noise - parts advice please
Datum:2001-10-27 15:29:08 PST
Hi Dave
> Interesting. Michael, is yours intercooled like mine? I have noticed
> than mine seems to have "mood swings" - on some days it seems more
> eager than others, but this could be entirely my imagination.
Ououa.. cool that someone has the same spirit for his car :-) I'm always classified "stupid" when telling these stories but now - after a certain testing time - I'm definitely sure of it. Dry days and temperatures between 15 to 20 degrees are rather bad for performance... cold, moist nights are simply perfect. This can, but shouldn't only be due to physics of differently dense air @ different temperatures...
> spends most of its time on the motorway at 3000ish revs, and it
> definitely seems to benefit from the occasional high speed run. It surely needs it... engines need to run smooth over the complete rev band occasionally.
> > What I have noticed is that fuel economy is much worse in the winter.
> Whether this is solely due to electrical load (rear demister, heater
> fan, lights) or whether it runs less efficiently at colder
> temperatures, I can't say.
This is normal... oil is less viscose, snow tyres need more fuel due to their structure, much more electrical power is used, you drive with your lights switched on most of the time on the road etc. etc.4 cams? Never heard of that but I must check... I thought the (new model) '97 2.5 litre was the first boxer engine constructed with 4 cams like in the formula 1.... Just funny what you can get out of this forum when you talk to people :-)
MikeVon:David Hills
Betrifft:Re: 92 Legacy Turbo - Brake binding and tappet noise - parts advice please
Datum:2001-10-28 08:34:00 PST
Mike 4 cams and intercooled... I know this because I'm a highly ski- oh, alright, because it says it on the top. ;-) I had thought the tappet problem was in part due to the complexity of the 4-cam head, but since your car has it too, that theory's out the window. Incidentally, I was looking back through my saved messages from this group, and found that we both contributed to a thread on this subject back in June last year. Same old same old, eh?
David Hills '92 Legacy Turbotop <
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